The Girls of Alishan
Alishan Mountain, Taiwan
“ The Alishan girl is as beautiful as the waterThe Alishan youth is as strong as the mountain,” Teresa Teng, Alishan de Guniang
In the quiet shadow of Taiwan's central mountains, long before the hiss of steam and clang of rails broke the silence, the Tsou people lived as stewards of Alishan's forests. Their days began with the soft glow of dawn filtering through ancient cypress trees, and their evenings ended around fires where ancestral stories were passed down. Life was simple but deeply rooted: every stream provided water, every tree held a spirit, and every trail echoed with the footsteps of generations. The forest was not just their home but a living part of their identity, and in return, the Tsou treated it with reverence.
The arrival of the railway changed everything. Built by the Japanese to extract Alishan's prized timber, it cut like a scar across the sacred landscape. The rhythmic clatter of trains replaced birdsong, and the Tsou watched helplessly as their ancient trees fell. This was not progress they had chosen. The forest, once alive with their stories, became merely a resource for others. The local folklore song sung and performed by the Tsou, named “Alishan De Guniang” was appropriated to become a pop song by the name of “Alishan Girl" by Teresa Teng they missed the mountains' true meaning to the Tsou. The song, though popular, reduced their culture to a caricature, a romanticized version of indigenous life that ignored their struggles.
And so, as urban life took hold, indigenous life faded into the background, a lushly green and endlessly floral backdrop...
Cypress Trees
The first leg of the Alishan journey is marked by dense forests that seem to envelop the travelers in a world of green. Towering cypress trees stretch toward the sky, their trunks thick with age, while ferns and moss cover the forest floor, creating a soft, lush carpet. The mist that often settles in the early morning adds an air of mystery, shrouding the landscape in an ethereal glow. The rustling of leaves is occasionally interrupted by the distant calls of birds, reminding travelers that this ecosystem is alive, vibrant, and ancient. The scent of fresh pine fills the air, and the quiet hum of the wind through the branches adds to the sense of serenity, almost as if the forest itself is whispering secrets to those who listen carefully.
For the indigenous Tsou people, this forest is not just a natural space, but a sacred land that holds deep cultural significance. The Tsou have lived in these mountains for centuries, and their connection to the land is woven into every part of their existence. They believe that the mountains are inhabited by spirits, or 'Apo,' who are guardians of the land. These spirits are honored in ceremonies, and the Tsou people’s deep respect for nature is evident in their sustainable practices, where they take only what they need from the forest, ensuring its preservation for future generations. The journey through these trees is a walk through history and belief, a testament to the enduring connection between the Tsou people and the land they have called home for millennia.
Tea Plantations
As the journey continues toward the Alishan Railway Station, the landscape shifts to reveal expansive tea plantations that stretch across rolling hills, their manicured rows of tea bushes casting a vibrant green contrast against the backdrop of towering mountains. The cool mountain air mixes with the scent of tea leaves, and the faint sound of workers plucking leaves can occasionally be heard in the distance. The gentle slopes provide a panoramic view, where the clouds seem to rest on the mountaintops, adding a sense of tranquility to the otherwise bustling scene. The tea plantations create a calm, almost idyllic setting, inviting visitors to pause, reflect, and take in the natural beauty that surrounds them.
The indigenous significance of these tea plantations is deeply tied to the Tsou’s agricultural practices. While tea itself may not have been a traditional crop for the Tsou, the broader relationship between the people and their land is reflected in their careful stewardship of nature. The Tsou people have long cultivated crops that are adapted to the mountainous terrain, such as millet and sweet potatoes, while using sustainable farming techniques passed down through generations. In recent years, the Tsou have also embraced tea cultivation as a way to continue their agricultural legacy, maintaining a balance between tradition and innovation. For them, farming is not just a way to produce food, but a practice that upholds the spiritual connection to the land and honors the ancestors who have cultivated it for centuries.
High Mountains
The final stretch of the Alishan journey takes travelers higher into the mountains, where they are greeted by spectacular views of the sea of clouds that often cover the landscape below. The rising sun casts a golden light over the peaks, and the air is crisp, thin, and exhilarating. The expansive vista gives a sense of being at the very edge of the world, with the valley below a patchwork of forests, fields, and villages. As the sun climbs higher, the sea of clouds begins to dissipate, revealing the full majesty of the mountain range. The sheer scale and beauty of the view evoke a sense of awe and wonder, as if nature itself is a work of art on a grand scale.
For the Tsou people, the high peaks of Alishan are not just majestic; they are sacred. These mountains hold spiritual significance and are regarded as the dwelling places of deities and ancestral spirits. The Tsou believe that the mountains are a bridge between the physical and spiritual worlds, and the high-altitude areas of Alishan are often the site of important rituals and ceremonies. These practices are a testament to the Tsou’s reverence for the natural world, where every tree, every rock, and every peak is imbued with a sense of the divine. As travelers reach the highest points of their journey, they are not just witnessing breathtaking views; they are stepping into a sacred realm where the connection between land, spirit, and people is profoundly felt.
To the Tsou people, Alishan is not merely a tourist attraction or an engineering marvel—it is a living entity with its own soul. The railway, which began as a tool of exploitation, now serves as a bridge for dialogue, creating opportunities for Indigenous voices to share their stories with the world. In this way, “Alishan De Guniang” has evolved into more than just a melody; it represents a turning point, where the voices of the Tsou and other Indigenous communities can be heard, and their complex, vibrant culture can be honored, not as a relic, but as a living, breathing entity in the present day.
Those who journey on the Alishan Express experience more than scenic vistas—they traverse lands steeped in stories, traditions, and deep reverence for nature. Through Indigenous eyes, Alishan transcends being just a destination; it stands as a testament to the timeless bond between people and their ancestral lands.
Written by Haya A. Elmizwghi
Edited by Thu Phan
Photographed by Julio Caggiano