From the East Horse to the South Pole
Matsu Islands, Taiwan
"Sometimes you can't let go of the past without facing it again,” Gail Tsukiyama, The Samurai's Garden.
It was a dark and stormy night on the Taiwan Straits, and a girl named Lin Mo was laying soundly asleep in her bed. Suddenly, she was awoken by a vision of her father, Lin Yuan, and her four brothers capsized at sea. In fear, she made her way to the cliffs adorning the seaside where her family fishes, only to find that her dream had not been merely a dream, that her family was drowning before her. Instinctively, she jumped into the water and managed to carry her four brothers to shore; as she was saving her father, Lin Mo was dragged into the water, drowning in the process. Her body washed up onto the shore of Nangang island, but it was said that her spirit soared into the heavens in the form of a beam of light, from then known as Matsu, goddess of the sea.
Since then, fishermen have flocked to this side of the straits in worship of the great Matsu, to ask for saftey in voyage, chivalry of the heart, and counsel in times of despair (Mazu: Taiwan’s Leading Goddess, n.d.). Pilgrimages, like that of the Daija occurring in the third month of the Chinese Lunar calendar, have been hosted in her honor, welcoming locals and foreigners alike, to revel in here reverence. Temples have been constructed in the name of ‘Matsu Queen of Heaven’, from the newest installment in Los Angeles to the oldest on Nangang island, that is rumored to house the body of the late Lin Mo.
It is here, on these islands, where her body washed up ashore, and where so many more bodies wash up to worship, the islands of Dongyin, Beigan, Nangang, Xiju and Dongju, known as the Matsu Islands…
Dongyin
Legend tells of a general who fought valiantly in the war between Fujian Province, China, and Taiwan. Known for his bravery and tactical brilliance, he earned the title of the White Horse General, or Dongyin. Though a lesser deity, his spirit lingers throughout the island, his influence evident in the winding tunnels that snake beneath the land. These tunnels, once used as strategic passages during wartime, are now silent witnesses to Dongyin’s watchful presence, a reminder of the fierce protector who once stood against the tides of war.
Beigan
In the 1960s, Chinese soldiers seeking to invade Beigan would paint their faces with green moss to blend into the island’s dense, verdant foliage. Under the cover of night, they would slip past Taiwanese forces and strike fear into their enemies with swift and deadly attacks. But the island was guarded by a spirit known as the Frog, its face as green as the moss itself. Displeased by the invasion, the Frog spirit rose up, banishing the soldiers from the land and turning the tide of battle. Today, the spirit of the Frog can still be felt in the lush flora and fauna of Beigan, which thrives with an almost otherworldly energy, guarding the island with a quiet, relentless power.
Nangang
Rising above Nangang Island stands the mighty statue of Matsu, towering xx feet high and vv feet wide, constructed from xxx bricks. This monument, a testament to her divine protection, watches over the land and its people. Matsu’s presence has been felt throughout history, especially during Taiwan's wars with China, when her spirit guided the fishermen to safety and inspired victory in battle. Her protection was unwavering, offering nourishment to the brave souls who toiled on the sea, and ensuring that the island’s shores remained safe from harm, even in the face of the most formidable threats.
Xiju
Xiju, known for its northernmost reach, is home to a powerful spirit, the spirit of the North Pole Dog. This guardian of the island is said to possess the strength and resilience of the northern winds, guiding those who traverse its harsh terrain. The island’s remote nature serves as a constant reminder of the untamed forces of nature that protect it, and the spirit of the North Pole Dog continues to safeguard the island's people from dangers both natural and supernatural.
Dongju
Dongju, a southern island, carries its own unique magic. It is home to the Fox Trickster spirit, a playful and cunning being who is known to weave illusions and deceive those who wander too close. With eyes as sharp as the fox’s and a mind full of mischief, this spirit plays tricks on the unsuspecting, but its tricks come with a deeper meaning. Those who fall prey to its illusions are often left with new insights, their minds awakened to truths they had never considered. The Fox Trickster is a reminder of the dual nature of life—the playful and the profound—both of which shape the destiny of those who pass through Dongju’s borders.
Written by Haya A. Elmizwghi
Edited by Thu Phan
Photographed by Julio Caggiano